Luang Prabang
Overview
The charming hideaway of Luang Prabang, just a 45-minute flight north of Vientiane, is one of Indochina’s gems and the showpiece of Laos. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995, the well preserved city is more of a sleepy backwater than a modern metropolis.
Wedged into the confluence of the mighty Mekong and lesser Khan river, Luang Prabang’s peaceful location sets the pace for the unhurried way of life in the second largest city in Laos. Its grid-like road network makes it virtually impossible to get lost, and the entire city can be covered on foot in a day.
This is not to say there is not much to see here: Luang Prabang is home to some cultural jewels. Formerly the seat of government and royal capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom, the city has long been a centre of religion and culture. Its well-preserved heritage is one of its main appeals as a tourist destination and the city is fast becoming an essential stop-off on the Southeast Asian tourist trail.
Visitors can enjoy the sights of monks collecting alms early in the morning, charming colonial architecture and ornate temples of distinct Laotian design, as well as spend relaxed afternoons at any one of the cafés that line the Mekong. Handmade crafts dominate the markets here, with embroidered quilts, wall hangings and scarves sold by women dressed in colourful ethnic costume.
In the evening, the otherwise dormant French restaurants spring into action to serve up refined meals of coq au vin (chicken cooked in wine), followed by crème brûlée (custard and caramel dessert) and accompanied by an imported bottle of French wine. Authentic Lao food is also a must-try, with spicy combinations eaten with the ubiquitous ‘sticky rice’ that is grown in this region.
Accommodation is varied and plentiful, with restored heritage houses offering comfortable and intimate stays. Large hotel chains haven’t found their way here yet, but there are still some luxury options for those looking for a colonial touch of class.
The delightful holiday spot of Luang Prabang regularly keeps visitors here for much longer than planned. Hospitable locals make stays here even more enjoyable and the range and charm of hotels ensures you can enjoy the tranquility of Luang Prabang in comfort.
Weather
Luang Prabang’s climate is characterised by dry and rainy seasons. The rainy season runs from June to October, when heavy rains can be expected most days. Despite the rains, temperatures throughout this season remain high at about 25°C to 30°C. This is one of the least favoured times to visit Luang Prabang as many of the city’s unpaved roads become unusable. Despite this, there are plenty of sunny patches and the vegetation is altogether lusher and more pleasant. If you arrive during the wet months, make sure you take advantage of the nearby waterfalls, which are at their best during this season.
The climate is drier from October to February, when temperatures are at their lowest. This is one of the best times to visit Luang Prabang, but visitors should come prepared for cool nights, when temperatures can drop to 15°C or lower. During the afternoons, sunshine is common.
Temperature rise in March, April, May and June, the hottest months of the year. There is typically no rain during these months and the city takes on a lethargic nature. Locals commonly nap in the afternoon when the heat it at its peak, and visitors may find sightseeing in temperatures of around 40°C. It is best to follow the locals and get up early, then rest in the afternoon until the temperature drops.
Tourism Information
For reasons that are soon become apparent, Luang Prabang is often described as the 'Jewel in Laos Crown'. Even though the town is well and truly on the tourist trail, it has nonetheless managed to preserve its natural splendor and inherent charm, exuding a missed-out-on-modernization vibe.
The majority of the city's sights can be reached on foot, so getting a map and making your way to the many temples (33 to be exact) is a good way to soak up the surroundings and observe the way of the Lao people, and the large monk community. The wonder of the ancient temples is apparent at first glance; the gentle and unassuming nature of the locals, given the chance, will also leave a lasting impression.
Wat Xieng Thong
Wat Xieng Thong is a masterpiece of Buddhist architecture from the 16th century, impressing visitors with its golden facades and mural paintings. The temple was used for the highest royal ceremonies and to temporarily house the bodies of deceased kings. Built in 1560, by King Setthathirat, Wat Xieng Thong remained in royal benefaction until 1975. Placed on the northern tip of Luang Prabang, the magnificent structure is fringed by the river.
The sim (main building) is thought to represent classic Luang Prabang architecture with its sweeping roofs. The rear wall of the sim has an interesting 'tree of life' mosaic set on a red background and the temple's interior is stenciled with gold images of the former King Chanthaphanit (of whom no written history exists). A smaller adjoining building, houses a reclining Buddha created in classic Lao style - a rarity.
Royal Palace musuem
Built as a residence for King Sisavang Vong and his family in 1904 by the French, like Wat Xieng Thong the palace was built on the riverfront, to be in direct view of arriving official visitors. Displaying traditional Laos motifs fused with French beaux-art styles, many of the rooms have been preserved since the day of the revolution when the royal family was forced into exile by the Pathet Lao.
Locals believe the palace to be haunted by ghosts and few will venture inside after dark. Inside, the walls feature murals and paintings depicting typical Laos life. It is advisable to visit the place first to stock up on some knowledge before taking the temple tours, ultimately making them more interesting.
Wat Wisunarat (Wat Visoum)
Built in 1513, this is the oldest temple in Luang Prabang. Originally built with wood the temple was remade with brick and stucco after it was set fire to by Black Haw riders in 1887. The sloping-style of the roof is a distinctive feature due to the fact that it is a not a common Laotian design trait. Inside the building is a stupa that was commissioned in 1503, complete with small Buddha images made from precious materials and sacred objects, many of which were stolen when the Haw invaded the temple.
These temples were recently constructed in comparison to the more historic Wat Visoun and Wat Xieng Thong. Situated at the top of 100 metre Phousi, the pinnacle of the hill is host to many temples.
The gilded stupor at the top of the hill is built on a huge rock and glistens brilliantly over the horizon. The abandoned temple of Wat Pa Huak resides a short walk away from the top with a wide terrace that overlooks the museum.
Wat Mai Suwanannapumaram
According to some sources the Chinese Haw found this temple too beautiful to destroy it. Situated next to the Royal Palace Museum, the gilded facade and relief panels tell the story of the highest incarnation of the Buddha Vessentara. A good choice to follow the Royal Palace Museum.
The feeding of the Monks
The saffron clad monks in Luang Prabang occupy a generous proportion of conversational and visual space. Watching or taking part in the morning food procession that sees the monks walking through and collecting food donations from locals is a heart-warming and culturally telling experience.
Each temple takes a different route around town, making sure that there is a steady flow and pace as the monks receive their alms (food donations). Woman should note that you must always keep your head lower than the monks' and your feet (always bare) should never ever be pointed at anyone. It's considered a grave insult. Also your shoulders and knees should be covered. The novices are happy to practice their English with tourists so feel free to indulge in some light-hearted conversation and perhaps learn something new about Laos culture.
Transportation
Airports
The recently modernised Luang Prabang International Airport is a convenient gateway for those coming from Thailand, Cambodia or Vietnam. Flights connect Luang Prabang with Bangkok and Chiang Mai in Thailand; Siem Reap in Cambodia; and Hanoi in Vietnam. In addition, three domestic routes are available to: Phongsaly, Vientiane and Xieng Khuang.
Airlines operating at the airport include: Bangkok Airways, Siem Reap Airways, Vietnam Airlines and Lao Airlines, the national airline of Laos. Visitors should note that heavy cloud coverage in Luang Prabang and other mountainous regions of Laos is common and flights are frequently cancelled.
Lao Airlines questionable safety record has steadily improved in recent years, with the airline now complying with international safety standards.
The single airport terminal has few facilities aside from basics such as toilets, telephones and transportation into the city. From the airport, it is a short jumbo (taxi) ride to the centre of Luang Prabang. Taxis meet each flight arrival. Many hotels are happy to arrange an airport pick up for guests.
Public Transport
It is possible to reach Luang Prabang by bus from other towns in Laos, including from the capital Vientiane. Buses are probably the least comfortable way of travelling, with many vehicles being old and susceptible to breaking down. However, many visitors prefer travelling by bus than flying due to safety concerns about domestic flights. It is however a rollercoaster ride from the capital, taking all day.
Another popular way to arrive in Luang Prabang is by slow boat from Huay Xai, a Laotian border town that sits on the opposite bank of the Mekong to Chiang Khong in Thailand. The slow boat trip along the Mekong takes two days and includes an overnight stop at Pakbeng. Speedboats are also available, but are more prone to accidents. Consider bringing a pair of earplugs and a rain coat along, if you choose to travel by speedboat.
Once you are in Luang Prabang, getting around is easy but transport can be slow and unreliable. Boats can be chartered to popular sights along the Mekong, such as the Pak Ou Caves. Boatmen tend to charge foreigners premium rates, so it’s worth checking the going price to your destination with your hotel before setting out.
Jumbos are the local form of taxi. These can be flagged down anywhere, but become tricky to find late at night when the streets become deserted. Agree on a price with the driver before hopping in and take a map with you if you are not sure where you are going. Cycle rickshaws are also available for short trips within the town, but are not suitable for reaching outlying destinations.
If you prefer to drive yourself, motorbikes are available for rent in Luang Prabang. If you are not used to driving on the right, Luang Prabang may not be the best place to learn, with traffic slow but unpredictable. A better bet for the uninitiated is to rent a bicycle, which are cheap and environmentally friendly. For the most part however, you will find getting around on foot the best way to see Luang Prabang.
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